Yellowstone – A Photographic Challenge

November 9, 2017

Yellowstone – September 17 – Oct 1, 2017

Rutting bull elk, Mammoth Hot Springs camp.

We arrived in Yellowstone National Park on a Sunday evening, September 17^th, expecting low tourist attendance, a high percentage of bull elk in the rut and bears in their pre-hibernation feeds. The shock was finding bumper to bumper vehicle traffic moving at rates of speed that made pulling over to spot wildlife subjects impossible. We had not been to the park since 2004. At that time, wildlife photographers were free to scope out opportunities for their shoots without major interference by others. Now, it is impossible, as the park is over-crowded late into the autumn and early in the spring. Between baby-boomers filling campgrounds to capacity in winter-worthy rv/campers and many busloads of Chinese tourists as guests from surrounding towns, it is not possible to become isolated as photographers along the roads of Yellowstone any longer. UPDATE 03/17/2021: REGARDING LARGE NUMBERS OF CHINESE TOURISTS, THESE ARE GUESTS IN OUR COUNTRY AND SHOULD BE TREATED WITH THE SAME RESPECT AS ANY FOREIGN GUESTS. ADDITIONALLY, WE DENOUNCE COWARDLY, IGNORANT WHITE SUPREMACY ABUSE OF AMERICANS OF ASIAN DECENT, OR ANY OTHER-THAN-WHITE AMERICANS. WE ENCOURAGE THE SILENT OBSERVERS OF ABUSE TO DOCUMENT AND REPORT WITNESSED ATROCITIES. THAT’S WHAT REAL PATRIOTS WHO LOVE DEMOCRACY MUST DO.

A wildlife photographer is a magnet for tourists. Pointing a lens at a creature draws dozens of curious onlookers to your elbow asking questions, demanding to know what you are seeing, making it nearly impossible to move and oftentimes, scaring away the photo subject. At times, we felt utter frustration, even anger, for the loss of wonderful photo opportunities.

We became determined to make the most of our situation to do wildlife photography. You could photograph bison all day long anywhere in the park. Bison bulls are dangerous when isolated, but herds stream across rivers and roads in good numbers offering anyone opportunities to photograph them.

A herd of bison approached us in Lamar Valley.

The pronghorns are tolerant of people, if you are careful not to crowd them.

Elk in the rut are predictable to locate. Some are born and raised near human communities, making them photograph-able but also especially dangerous to approach during the rut. Other elk herds frequent prime grazing in valleys or foothills near routes of travel. With persistence, elk photos are going to happen.

Finding bears to photograph depends on your timing and a little knowledge of their habits. Bears voraciously eat as long as enough food is available to fatten them up for hibernation. During this phase (called hyperphagia) they consume 15,000-20,000 calories per day and need several gallons of liquid to metabolize their food. Berries, nuts, carrion or fresh kills near water are likely places to locate them. Scanning the brush near streams and rivers with berry patches offered the best opportunities. We came upon four sightings of bears that turned into bear jams and made photography very difficult.

Wolves are not easy to see unless they happen to have made a rare kill near a road. They are very wary of people. Large numbers of tourists dash between high-point observation areas to scan known wolf pack locations with powerful spotting scopes. It seems to please them to spend hours viewing animals that often are more than a mile away – barely being able to determine if a wolf is black or silver. As photographers, we do not consider these sightings as intimate nature experiences worthy of capturing in an image.

Many of the smaller creatures we’d normally photograph in Yellowstone are harder to observe. For one thing, traveling at 20-25 mph is just slow enough to spot smaller subjects, but Yellowstone traffic moves 25-45 mph nowadays. Heavy traffic has apparently pushed many populations further away from the roadways that loop the park. The good news for wildlife is that there are very few roads in Yellowstone, so one assumes many creatures thrive in remote valleys and ridges. Of all the small creatures we sought to photograph, we were most successful at finding the beautiful little cousin to rabbits, the American Pika. Terry’s knowledge of how they create haystacks to store their winter food supplies led us to two denning spots.

Since wolves were introduced to Yellowstone in the mid-1990’s, they effectively have reduced the coyote population by roughly 50%. Wolves that encounter them will kill them rather than compete with them. The wily Yellowstone coyote has figured out that it is safer to roam nearer to humans, distant from where wolves hang out. We could observe them going about their natural hunting behaviors within range of our telephoto lenses. It is quite the opposite in Grant County, Oregon where coyotes are hunted as vermin. Here, the sight of a slowing vehicle causes a very different response – they will bound away from the roadway as fast as possible.

For those who seek beautiful views of some dramatic landscape, Yellowstone will not disappoint them. Artist Point with a view of Lower Falls is breathtaking, as are several waterfalls within the park. Yellowstone Lake is huge with a backdrop of snow-peaked mountains. The scorched countryside from the big fires of 1988 are filling with reproduction forests. The hot springs and geysers add wonder, mystery and a sense of risk about what all lies just below the surface in Yellowstone. We may never return to Yellowstone to do wildlife photography; but still, wildlife does abound there, and we were successful in capturing more images within two weeks than all winter in our home area where creatures are hunted and avoid our approach. To view our slideshow click this link: https://terrysteelenaturephotography.com/yellowstone-national-park-2017/

Artist Point, Lower Falls, Yellowstone National Park

Moose, on the Wild Side

November 7, 2017

September – 2017: Greater Yellowstone Area – Montana

Valley meadows link steep mountain peaks in the Gallatin Range north of Yellowstone National Park. We traveled a rough valley road through the western edge of Tom Miner Basin, searching for grizzly bears that had been seen near the grass fields above the creek just the night before. Not a bear was in sight. As the evening shadows climbed to the ridge-tops, we gave up and decided to head back to camp.

Along the road, board fences draw a boundary between grassy meadows and the fingers of forests jetting out from the foothills. The expectation is that cattle are pastured inside the fences; on the outside – all things wild.

Something wasn’t quite right about the outline of the two dark forms we spotted in the distance – charging along the perimeter of the fence. They were too lanky – but not horse-like; and they couldn’t be cattle. As we drew closer we saw they were just on the outside of the fence. Then we realized, “They are moose!” A Shiras bull moose in the rut was pursuing a cow moose in heat. She trotted away from the fence for several hundred feet and stopped. As he caught up to her, she darted back to the fence again. He pursued. She seemed anxious, stressed. Then we discovered the reason, a moose calf was stuck inside the fence, unable to clear the top or work through the barbed wire strung between a barrier of boards. If ever we had a chance to read an animal’s mind, this was it – then and there. The bull had one thing on its mind, the cow had her youngster on her mind. Momma was beckoning the calf to leap the fence.She approached it as closely as possible, stretched her neck over the fence top, then turned and bolted away from the calf for more than a hundred feet. Over and over she repeated this action. Each time the bull followed her.

The pattern built to a frenzied level until the calf, who was frantically prancing in place, finally mustered the courage to make the big leap.It was a hard escape. The young moose managed to thrust its center of gravity over the top, but its hind end scrambled hard to climb the fence boards and wire. First one foot shook loose the barbed wire, but the other foot seemed badly snagged. We held our breaths, very concerned the calf was hopelessly tangled. After a worrisome period of time, the other foot was freed. What a relief. We would not have been able to help it without risking an attack by its mother.

The reunion between momma and calf was remarkable; she seemed to greet the calf, as if checking him over.

Once all the wild ones were on the right side of the fence, they trotted back into the forest with the rutting bull bringing up the rear.

We never did see a grizzly bear in this area. Just two weeks earlier a woman was injured in an attacked at this location by a grizzly that was protecting its food source – the carcass of a cow. Her partner was able to drive the bear off by using bear spray. Five days before that another woman was attacked by a bear as she was walking her dog at a nearby fishing access point. Luckily the old lab barked so ferociously, the bear left and the woman survived with head wounds (requiring staples in her scalp) and some bruising. It was never determined if the bear was a grizzly or an American black bear. Grizzly bears are not known to prey upon humans; they are most dangerous when protecting young or food. Black bears are believed to consider humans as prey. If hiking or hunting trips are planned for wilderness areas, bear spray is highly recommended, and effective. To view a slideshow of our two weeks of photography click this link: https://terrysteelenaturephotography.com/yellowstone-national-park-2017/

(Of the four subspecies of moose in North America, this Shiras (pronounced “shy’-rahs”) bull of the Rocky Mountains in the US and southern Canada is smaller antlered than the big ones of Alaska, the northwestern moose of parts of Canada to northern Minnesota-Michigan, or the eastern moose. Still, Shiras are big – reaching more than 750 lbs. This bull was good sized for a Shiras. The largest of them control harems, while others search out lone females. That seemed to be the case here. The population of Shira moose is in a slight down trend. It is believed that this trend is the result of reintroducing wolf populations more than hunting which is heavily regulated. Encountering barbed-wire fences in traditional grazing zones can’t be healthy for young moose either.)

The Week of the River Otters

March 12, 2017

This North American river otter posed for Kay along the Middle Fork of the John Day River, Grant County, Oregon. After years of sightings with poor (or no) photo ops, Terry and Kay both experienced outstanding opportunities to produce wonderful images of this beautiful creature.

Terry’s history with otters.

I’ve always been very interested in river otters. As a kid growing up in Prairie City (Eastern Oregon), I spent immeasurable hours fishing for trout on the main fork of the John Day River and wondered why we never saw any. If otters had been present, I would have seen them.

As I grew older, and left my past outdoors-man lifestyle in exchange for nature photography, I really wanted to photograph the North American river otter. I traveled farther afield and saw more and more of them. To my great dismay, I could not seem to produce a decent photograph.

Years ago, I spotted a group of otters that seemed to be feeding in the Yellowstone River. I parked my rig, got out and set up a big lens to try to photograph them. Hordes of nature photographers populate Yellowstone National Park in the fall of the year. A lens on a tripod pointing at a subject is an immediate draw. Instantly I had nearly fifteen photographers joining me at the roadside. Meanwhile, the otters moved to the river bank nearer to us. A tourist approached with a point-and-shoot camera. Not having a long lens, he walked right up to the bank for his picture. At that point, one of the otters popped out of the water and began to sniff his pant cuff. The tourist started to re-position himself for a shot at it. The big lens photographers shouted at him, “Don’t move! Don’t move!” – sounding as though they were in total command. I was so disgusted with their arrogant and very overbearing performance that I wanted to shout back at them that tourists have as much right to get a photo as they did. I sure didn’t get any worthwhile photo of otters on this day. For whatever reason, I’ve always had difficulty getting good otter shots.

Terry Steele is checked out by a North American river otter at the High Desert Museum in Bend, Oregon. They are playful and curious; and they are a challenge to photograph in an enclosure as well as in the wild. — Terry Steele is checked out by a North American river otter at the High Desert Museum in Bend, Oregon. They are playful and curious. As a favor to the museum, he was photographing exhibit animals for their brochures, newsletters and general publicity. For his own portfolios, captive animals are never acceptable subjects.

Several years later, in Big Cypress National Preserve near Everglades National Park in Florida, I encountered otters twice. The light was so poor that I had to shoot 400 ISO speed film. This film produced very grainy photos, not good for much but a slideshow. At least I got a couple of pretty nice otter shots.

North American river otter, Big Cypress National Preserve, Florida - eating catfish. — North American river otter, Big Cypress National Preserve, Florida – eating catfish.

North American river otter in Big Cypress National Preserve, Florida.

There is not enough room here for me to tell of all the opportunities to photograph otters that didn’t work out. However, my wife Kay, doesn’t seem to be walking under the same dark cloud in this regard. I’ll let her tell about the week of the otters we recently experienced.
– TRS

The Week of the Otters

Early February, 2017, Grant County, Oregon.

A river otter, emerges from the water with a wet, slick coat as it traverses the broken ice slabs pushed along the banks.

We’ve just experienced a harsh winter that produced unusually thick ice on our two local rivers – the North Fork and Middle Fork of the John Day River. A sudden thaw brought an abrupt breakup of the ice in early February. Terry headed down to the North Fork to check it out. He was rewarded by a surprise encounter with a pair of river otters. They obliged him with wonderful photos. (This link to our last slide show of the season, Winter Wildlife in Grant County, Oregon – Part III, includes his otter photos.)

Four days later, Terry drove us up the Middle Fork, providing me the opportunity to photograph whatever we could spot. I never dreamed I’d have a chance to track another otter along the river.

We followed this otter up the Middle Fork of the John Day River a mile. It traveled along the the bank and swam areas of open water, all the while keeping an eye on us as it appeared to enjoy itself climbing over ice sheets and playing in the pockets of deep snow. — We followed this otter a mile up the Middle Fork of the John Day River. It traveled along the bank and swam areas of open water, all the while keeping an eye on us as it appeared to enjoy itself climbing over ice sheets and playing in the pockets of deep snow.

This time the light was good, and the otter was very cooperative. Again, the large blocks of ice in fast flowing water seemed to force the otter out of the river to travel along the bank.

River otters are constant motion. This one is travelling the river bank when a sudden thaw released huge ice blocks in the flow and made travel by water high risk.

This constantly moving otter paused long enough to play in the snow. It dived out of sight, popped up and sledded on its belly – all for the fun of it.

A river otter loves to play in the snow. Throwing its arms back along its sides, it sleds down the snowy bank to the river's edge. — A river otter loves to play in the snow. Throwing its arms back along its sides, it sleds down the snowy bank to the river’s edge.

The river otter pushed itself along in the snow, sledding, rolling and frolicking its way to the river's edge. — The river otter pushed itself along in the snow, sledding, rolling and frolicking its way to the river’s edge.

Repeatedly, Terry moved us up the river with the otter as I photographed it running along the bank, climbing over ice slabs and swimming stretches of open water. I don’t expect to have another opportunity like these two days for a long time; but we seem to have broken the otter jinx Terry had been living through past years.

A river otter, playing in the snow, pauses to keep an eye on the photographer focused on its antics.

The Day of the Eagles

February 26, 2017

This winter, Terry has deliberately been our driver to set me up for photo opportunities because he feels he has enjoyed many years of my assists to him. This has positioned me on the best side of the vehicle to make it possible for me to build my own portfolio of winter wildlife images. Up to this day, the best eagle shot ever was of a bald eagle in the snow along the Middle Fork of the John Day River taken by Terry a couple of years ago.

Though the weather forecast on Feb 23^rd was for snow showers, we decided to go on a photo shoot, figuring we could always turn around if it got too stormy. Little did we imagine that snow would become a key element in nearly all of our photographs that day.

Four bald eagles - two adults, two juveniles and a black-billed magpie. — Four bald eagles – two adults, two juveniles and a black-billed magpie.

Early on along our route, there is a wonderful distant snag (1/4 mile away) where we have often seen a bald eagle perched. On this day there were four plus a black-billed magpie. We should have known then that this was going to be a different kind of day.

We checked all our favorite locations as we drove miles up the river, but nothing much happened by the time we reached Galena. We thought we’d give it up and turn around by Camp Creek. Then Terry suggested that we’d come that far, we may as well go a few miles further.

As we started on up the Middle Fork, we spotted ravens in the road. Then we spotted bald eagles in some cottonwood trees. We moved closer and saw a road-killed coyote just off the road to our left. It had obviously been fed on by eagles but at the moment there were only ravens and magpies on the carcass; so we focused on the bald eagles to our right.

Three adult bald eagles in on cottonwood tree. — Three adult bald eagles perched on the cottonwood tree.

There were technical difficulties to produce good images. The snow showers were sporadically heavy and light. When too heavy, it’s impossible to get good focus. The sky was blown out gray, so lining the birds up against a dark background was a must. We had three adults on one tree which was special, but bald eagles (with white heads and very dark bodies) are notoriously difficult to photograph with proper light exposure.

We decided the better image was to use more magnification and isolate just two subjects against the mountain, with shutter speeds capable of stopping the snowflakes from blurring. Terry and I usually discuss these technical challenges of the subjects we are shooting, if time allows. This has undoubtedly improved our success rate.

Light snowfall against darkened mountains accentuate this winter scene of bald eagles. — Light snowfall against dark mountains accentuate this winter scene of bald eagles.

When I felt I had the pictures I wanted, we continued up the Middle Fork. As we returned, we spotted a golden eagle feeding on the road-kill. We were amazed that it stayed on the carcass as we crept closer and adjusted our position to shoot out the window.

Golden eagle feeding on a road-killed coyote.

In all our past experiences, the golden eagle has been very skittish and we have not been able to approach as close as we’d like. I shot away until a person working in the area drove up and frightened the eagle off. He apologized saying he didn’t see our lens out the window.

As we began driving away, we noticed two bald eagles stacked in the tree on the opposite side of the road. We drove down to turn around, came back and I was able to photograph them in the lightly falling snow. Once again, we headed up the river road to a turn around.

With falling snow and a darkened background, two bald eagles perch in the cottonwood tree.

It is important to point out why we repeatedly drove to turnaround points in order to line ourselves up with photo subjects, rather than to stop nearby, get out of our rig and use a beanbag over the hood, a tripod or even hand hold a camera. It is guaranteed that getting out of your vehicle is a sure way to get your subject to leave the area asap. While they may be wary of you stopping and pointing a lens out the window, most wildlife does not recognize a vehicle as a threatening predator or competitor. If you want the photo shoot to last and produce, stay in your rig.

As we returned back down the road, Terry spotted the golden eagle on the hillside above the road-kill. I was fortunate this particular golden eagle was so tolerant.

It is unusual for a golden eagle to tolerate a photographer so nearby.

This golden eagle was the most tolerant of its kind we have ever encountered. He perched on a kill by the road, on the nearby hillside, and on a downed tree limb - offering wonderful poses. — This golden eagle was the most tolerant of its kind we have ever encountered. He perched on a kill by the road, on the nearby hillside, and on a downed tree limb – offering wonderful poses.

I am aware that this “day of the eagles” was something that may never happen again in my lifetime. Every wildlife photographer has experienced many days when nothing productive happened at all. Relative to Terry, was this a case of beginner’s luck? I think not. I had at my side nearly thirty years of his wildlife photography experience. Everything came together for success – the close proximity to eagles, the artful background of darkened mountainsides with the entire scene veiled in falling snow, the judgments about what settings to use, and what workable positioning to achieve. All of this melded into a once in a lifetime, special happening. Thanks, Terry. (I must mention he did all of this with a broken rib from a fall on the ice just days before.) Next time, I’m driving.